A General Natural History group tour at Farm Lator

Hungary, Farm Lator, A Greentours Trip Report, 1st – 8th June 2003

Leaders – Paul Cardy and Rob de Jong

Trip report written by Paul Cardy

Day 1 Sunday 1st June Arrival

Robert and I had a good flight from London and arrived in Budapest to meet Ivan and Janet, and Tim and Shelagh who had travelled from Norwich. Collecting the mini-bus was straightforward and our journey around the Budapest ring road was an interesting introduction to the country. There was some fine architecture on the outskirts of the city. We joined the M3, a straight and rather empty road. Buzzards were common and there were several Red-backed Shrikes. Smoke Bush, Viper’s Bugloss and Salvia nemorosa were common on the verges. We stopped at a service station, and saw Crested Lark. We passed the Matra Hills and then the Bukk Hills came into view.

Having left the motorway and onto the old road we drove through several picturesque villages. The minor road to Farm Lator took us past a small lake near Saly. We stopped here and found much of interest despite the poor weather. Astragalus cicer and Aristolochia clematitis were in flower, and the Convolvulus arvensis supported Spotted Sulphur moths, now extinct in Britain. Great Reed Warblers sang atop the reeds and Grey Heron was seen. Phlomis fruticosa and Lathyrus tuberosus were in flower. Among other insects were White Plume Moth, Ischnura elegans, Coenagrion puella and the bug Graphosoma italicum.

We arrived at 6.00 p.m. at the peaceful and beautiful Farm Lator, where we were met by Rob and Barbara, and settled into our rooms. We reconvened for dinner and looked forward to the week ahead of us.

Day 2 Monday 2nd June Farm Lator

We started the day examining the catch in Tim’s two moth traps, and what a catch! It was a bit overwhelming with over 120 species!! Not only were there many unusual species, but many were very beautiful too. Oak Hawk-moth was a pleasing find, as it is not a British species, but turned out to be quite common here during the week. Lime Hawk-moth and Small Elephant Hawk-moth were also in the trap. Among the species that are very rare or extinct in Britain were Lewes Wave, Essex Emerald, Black-veined Moth, Lesser Belle and Purple Cloud. There were several species such as Eucharia casta, Rhodostrophia vibicaria and Tephrina arenacearia that do not occur in Britain.
Some of the more attractive moths were Peach-blossom, Mocha, Orange Moth, Pretty Chalk Carpet, Blotched Emerald, Lace Border, Four-spotted Footman and Buff-tip. There were many micros but we had little time to pay them much attention, however several Pyralids and Tortricids were identified. This was a wonderfully successful trapping session and we looked forward to the rest of the week’s catches.

It was time for breakfast, which was a good selection of breads, cheese, meats, fruit, juice, tea, and coffee. We were to spend the whole day in the environs of Farm Lator and we found more than enough to keep us occupied. Among the many plants around the farm were Aristolochia clematitis, Geranium phaeum, and Anthriscus cerefolium. The attractive black and red bug Graphosoma italicum was very common on the umbellifers, and Rose Chafers were quite common.

We started our walk through woods that held a good selection of broad-leaved trees. Blackcaps and Golden Orioles called constantly, as did the Nightingale that had been singing all night. Small Pearl-bordered Fritillaries were already on the wing. Epipactis helleborine was in bud, and Salvia pratensis and Astragalus glycyphyllos were in flower. The attractive longhorn beetle Agapanthea villosoviridescens was found. A small grassy clearing had much Dianthus giganteiformis in flower, and the lovely Verbascum phoeniceum as well as Trifolium montanum. Drab Looper was noted. Pearly and Chestnut Heaths and Sloe Hairstreaks were flying. Just out of the forest we found a very good dry limestone outcrop. Hieracium pilosella, Sedum acre, Campanula persicifolia, and Muscari comosum were all seen. Knapweed and Glanville Fritillaries were here, and a fine male Purple-shot Copper. Silver-studded Blue was common, whilst Common Blue, Wood White, and Orange-tip were also seen. Among the skippers were Small, Large and Orbed Red-underwing. Corn Buntings sang from the tops of bushes.

Further along we found a meadow full of cornflowers and Barred Warbler called from inside a bush. Some stunning Large Coppers were admired. For some time we watched an Imperial Eagle being mobbed by a Buzzard, and we had fine views. Quail was heard as we left the track and walked across a grassy meadow down into a valley. A few Bee-eaters were seen and we located some nests in a sandy cliff. Red-backed Shrike was seen very well.

A lovely wet meadow supported many fine insects. A Stag Beetle buzzed through the air and I caught it so we could appreciate this marvellous insect. The dragonfly Libellula depressa was rather common. A single Southern Festoon was a good find, and Black Hairstreak, Large Wall Brown, and a male Berger’s Clouded Yellow were found. Nickerl’s Fritillary was here, and a Map Butterfly of the spring brood. Silver-barred and Mother Shipton moths were added to the list.

The beautiful feathery grass Stipa pennata was found, and Ragged Robin and Yellow Flag were in flower. We walked slowly back to Farm Lator, arriving back late afternoon after a very productive first day. All of us fully occupied a beautiful ‘house’ in a tranquil situation and it was an ideal place in which to relax. In the evening Robert found a Scarce Fritillary perched on a tree in the garden. Middle-spotted Woodpecker was seen near the house.

Day 3 Tuesday 3rd June Aggtelek – Szinpetri and Szogliget

Another good selection in the moth traps, and today we were even filmed by Rob as we examined the catch. Small Emerald, Swallow Prominent, Maple Prominent, Royal Mantle, Pale Tussock, and Grey Arches were among the species new to us this morning.

Today Rob came with us, and we travelled north up to the Slovak border and the Aggtelek Hills. Rather surprisingly there were four Mute Swans on the water near Saly, these not seen locally before by Rob. A Cuckoo perched on the wires. A short cut to Miskolc took us through attractive countryside. The Trabants on the road caused much amusement to Tim. Once through the industrial sprawl of Miskolc we turned onto small country roads. In one village was a photogenic White Stork on a nest, but it soon flew once we got out of the van. In Josvafo we met a local warden who was to show us a site for Lady’s Slipper Orchids, but he had bad news for us, they had all finished flowering already. Campanula sibirica was in flower on the roadsides. We had a good view of a Buzzard flying low over the fields.

Near the village of Szinpetri Rob showed us a very interesting area where we spent the remainder of the morning. Woodland Ringlet was rather common here, and Lesser Marbled and Heath Fritillary were seen. The lovely and large flowered Polygala major was common and Cerinthe minor was found. The meadows were beautiful with fine wooded hills all around us. Centaurea sadleriana, Melampyrum arvense, and the fine red-flowered Echium russicum were all here. Several Black Hairstreaks were seen, and a single Green Hairstreak. Both Scarce and Large Copper were in fine condition. A Large Blue was the only one seen on the trip, and Lesser Spotted Fritillary was noted too. Rob left us to explore a large clearing with scattered junipers whilst he walked on to look for butterflies. A female Red Deer ran from cover near to us. Lesser Whitethroat sang from the bushes.

We ate lunch back at the vehicle and Rob arrived clutching Chapman’s and Turquoise Blues, and High Brown Fritillary. He had also seen Safflower Skipper. After lunch we drove a short distance to the riverside at Szogliget. Both Purple and Lesser Purple Emperors were noted and Silver-washed and High Brown Fritillaries were on the wing. In the woods were many Martagon Lilies in bud, and Vincetoxicum pannonicum and Buglossoides purpurocaerulea. The interesting tree Bladder Nut was common. White Admiral and Speckled Wood were here too. Back near the mini-bus was the butterfly highlight of the day, a Poplar Admiral that was settling on the track, a fine species and very local here. Rob had never before seen it at this site.

On the way home we had an interesting stop at a Tesco hypermarket! Goshawk and Marsh Harrier were seen on the return journey, and back at Farm Lator we found a Field Cricket.

Day 4 Wednesday 4th June Bukk Hills – Repashuta and Nagy-Mezo

Tim had moved the moth traps across the road, and this provided a wealth of new species to us. Hawk-moths were well represented with Poplar, Eyed, Privet, Oak, Lime, and Elephant. Black V Moth, Orache (how is that pronounced?), Brindled Green, Toadflax Pug, and Nut-tree Tussock were among the good catch. Today we had something of an audience as several of the campers were interested in what we were up to. They were particularly keen on placing moths on a certain tree so they could photograph them.

Once again we were blessed with fine weather, which lasted throughout our stay. We headed north, along the permit only road that starts near Farm Lator. This is a beautiful road through the Bukk Hills, and extensive Beech-Hornbeam forest. There were many Martagon Lilies, with some in good flower. Bird’s-nest Orchids, White Helleborines and Digitalis grandiflora were all noted. Hawfinches were not uncommon and we had some fine views. Clouded Apollos prompted a stop, but they turned out to be fairly numerous today. Epipactis microphylla was found growing under the trees. A scenic drive took us to the village of Repashuta where we took a rough track down to a valley. Grey Wagtails were seen. No sooner had we alighted from the vehicle than Large Tortoiseshells were seen along the track. Seven or eight were noted at this site, in the company of Commas along the track. Pearly and Chestnut Heaths were here, and more Clouded Apollos. Among the flowers here were Lychnis viscaria and Dianthus deltoides. A pair of Coal Tits, and then a pair of Willow Tits were seen. Small Argent and Sable was added to the moth list.

As we got back to the vehicle two Corncrakes were calling from an adjacent meadow. Despite a lot of searching and walking through the meadow we failed to see any sign of these elusive birds. We ate in the woods where a Romanian family have established a charcoal burning operation. Some of the group studied the process carefully, and were even given some bread by the friendly family. We stopped after lunch to admire a fine stand of Iris sibirica. Inside the woods were a selection of commoner birds as well as a male Red-breasted Flycatcher that we saw well.

The afternoon saw us heading to the Bukk Plateau and the large meadow at Nagy-Mezo. Pearl-bordered Fritillary was seen here. Both Yellowhammer and Cirl Bunting were present, the latter sitting atop a bush. There was more Iris sibirica here and Senecio integrifolius.

Day 5 Thursday 5th June Aggtelek and Josvafo

In the moth trap this morning were Pine Hawk-moth, Yellow-tail, Dwarf Cream Wave, Bordered Gothic, Large Emerald, Many-lined and Plain Wave. Perhaps the highlight was the green Willowherb Hawk-moth, a non-British species.

Today we made a second visit to the Aggtelek Hills, travelling first to the eponymous village. As we passed the water at Saly a female Golden Oriole flew past. We made two Stork stops along the way, the second a very photogenic one on a post in a village. We caused consternation among the villagers here, particularly an elderly lady who didn’t seem to like us at all.

Aggtelek is just 500m from the Slovak border. Here we walked along a valley, and it was hot today. A White Stork landed in a field near by. The limestone meadows supported an interesting flora with Dianthus giganteiformis and Dianthus deltoides among many others. Heath Fritillary and Idas and Silver-studded Blues were here. A larva of Willowherb Hawk-moth, the adult of which we had caught in the trap this morning, was found. Berger’s Clouded Yellow and several Black Hairstreaks were seen. Robert found a bug on a plantain that had caught an Idas Blue. Nickerl’s Fritillary was found, and Lathyrus nissolia in flower and Adonis vernalis in seed.

We ate lunch by a cave entrance. The tranquillity was interrupted when the door opened and tens of people walked out! Scarce Swallowtail, Brimstone and Large Tortoiseshell flew past as we ate. Lactuca perennis was here, and Agile Frog and a Harvestman were found.
After a quick visit to look at the Slovak border for those who wanted a border post tick we stopped to look at the Crassula tillaea along the roadsides. We spent the afternoon at Josvafo, the weather being now very hot. There were many mud-puddling blues beside the stream, mostly a mixture of Plebejus species. Scarce Swallowtail, Wood White, High Brown and Heath Fritillaries were also there. Along the upper track we found an Emperor Dragonfly that sat devouring a moth and provided ample opportunity for photographs. Chequered and Adonis Blue, and White Admirals were also here. A Lesser Purple Emperor was seen, but sadly we only had a brief glimpse of Woodland Brown, one of the target species here.

It was so hot that some of the group ended up paddling in the stream and then we retired to a bar for refreshments. On the way back we stopped for ice-creams.

Day 6 Friday 6th June Borsodi-Mesozeg

Most of the group were up before dawn, and we met at 4.40 am for tea and coffee. Having wished Shelagh a happy birthday we set off for Borsodi-Mesozeg, or Little Hortobagy, an extensive area of steppe-like grassland and wetlands, to the south of where we were staying. The reason for our very early start was the better chance of seeing Great Bustard early in the morning, before they take shelter from the heat.

The morning was crisp and clear. As we neared our destination we saw Green Woodpecker and Hoopoe. Janos, a young man who lived locally and knew the whereabouts of the Bustards met us to accompany us and point us in the right direction. We spent a long time driving around the plains in the mini-bus, veering off into rough meadows, and driving across fields in search of our quarry. We saw various birds such as Yellow Wagtails and a Meadow Pipit, but then Rob spotted a male Great Bustard. We approached quietly and were rewarded with excellent views through the telescope. They really are impressive birds. Our early start had been worthwhile.

Among the flowers were Gratiole and Scutellaria galericulata growing in a wet flush, and Verbascum phoeniceum. There were a number of Hares, and Roe Deer were seen. Rollers, Skylarks, Whinchat, and Great Egrets were among the other birds here. Having said goodbye to Janos we returned to Farm Lator for breakfast and said good morning to Robert who had stayed behind. The moth traps were teeming with moths, but we decided to put them in a cool place and examine them later.

Around the house was the amazing selection of Purple Emperor, Lesser Purple Emperor, Large Tortoiseshell, and a summer brood Map Butterfly. The latter was a surprise as we had seen the spring brood still on the wing earlier in the week.

We returned to Borsodi-Mesozeg for the remainder of the day. Consolida regalis and Consolida orientalis lined the roadsides. Our first stop was by a drainage channel that supported much Flowering Rush. Reed Warbler was active in the reeds, and White-legged Damselflies were seen. Eastern Pale Clouded Yellow and Mallow Skipper were on the wing. Further along a group of trees had a Long-eared Owl, and we watched a few week old youngster for some time. We had great views of an Imperial Eagle, and Spotted Flycatcher, Penduline Tit and Lesser Grey Shrike were here. Among the butterflies were Eastern Bath White, Marbled White, and a very pale Holly Blue. Red-footed Falcons flew backwards and forwards, another species that nests in the trees. Tree Sparrows were also noted.

A narrow pond supported some twenty Spoonbills, and Whiskered Terns were numerous. Ferruginous Duck and Purple Heron were also here. Nearby a small circular pond held Night and Squacco Herons, and we saw a Dice Snake.

We ate lunch in a lovely garden of a hostelry in a small village and the group were pleased with the beer on offer. Nearby was a Souslik colony but they were difficult to see today, although Sheila did glimpse one of them. A short drive took us to some open water that supported many birds. Little, Red-necked and Black-necked Grebes were all here. There were more Spoonbills, and Greylag Geese. Among the ducks were Teal, Garganey and Shoveler. An immature White-tailed Eagle put in an appearance. There were few waders but we did see Ruff and Black-winged Stilt. The Sea Lavender Limonium gmelini flowered among the grass. Rob disappeared into the bushes nearby and returned with a Fire-bellied Toad, a lovely species that is bright red ventrally. We returned to Farm Lator in good time to allow time for going through the moth traps. Among the species added today were Reed Leopard, L-album Wainscot, Dewick’s Plusia, Pine Lappet, Coronet, Dingy Shears, and Dark Sword Grass.

At dinner a cake was produced to celebrate Shelagh’s birthday.

Day 7 Saturday 7th June Kisgyor and Omassa

Again the moth traps were operated on the camp site side of the road. Scarce Hook-tip was a pleasing fine, a species that is limited to the Bristol area in Britain. It’s foodplant is Small-leaved Lime. Having been conspicuous by their absence Yellow Underwings put in an appearance this morning with Large, Lesser, and Broad-bordered being taken. Cloaked Carpet and Ruddy Carpet were both choice species. Common species recorded for the first time were Poplar Grey, Short-cloaked, Turnip Moth, Pebble Prominent, Dot Moth and Swallowtailed Moth. Scarce Forester was found in the trap, surprising as it is a diurnal species.

The weather was again glorious as we headed into the Bukk Hills. Several Large Tortoiseshells were seen along the road. At the first stop we found some fine Red Helleborines, as well as Dictamnus albus. Marbled Fritillary was seen but the butterfly highlight was a flowering lime tree that had literally hundreds of Painted Ladies feeding on it. There were also a few Silver-washed Fritillaries. An Imperial Eagle flew over, and Blackcap was seen. The attractive diurnal moth Syntomis phegea was seen here.

Kisgyor was our next stop, and here we walked up an interesting limestone slope, through flower rich meadows. Duke of Argyll’s Tea Plant was in flower in the hedgerows. Whitethroat was singing as we arrived. Among the many plants here were Inula oculus-cristi, Inula salicina and Inula hirta, Prunus mahaleb, Melampyrum nemorosum, Sorbus domestica and Sorbus torminalis. Blue-spot Hairstreak was present in some numbers, and Marbled White was seen. We reached the site of an old habitation, where a naturalised paeony had an attractive hairy noctuid caterpillar feeding on it. Gooseberry and Almond were other remnants of cultivation. Quercus pubescens was growing here, parasitised by Loranthus europaeus. Rob went exploring and returned with Hungarian Glider. An attractive larvae found feeding on Wych Elm was that of a Gypsy Moth. Allium sphaerocepahlon and Ornithogalum pyramidale were found in flower. A tree laden with delicious cherries was well raided!

We drove deeper into the Bukk Hills and through the tourist attractions at Lillafured to the village of Omassa. Here we ate lunch at a bar, with of course beer for the group. There was a Badger as well as several other stuffed animals inside. A Scarce Copper was seen in the village.

After lunch we took a path along a wooded valley. White Admiral and Hungarian Glider were seen, and then a Camberwell Beauty. Mountain Argus and Comma were also here. Rob found and caught a young Fire Salamander and I caught an Agile Frog. Phylittis scolopendrium and Impatiens parviflora were noted. Back in the village we stopped for ice-creams and witnessed the spectacle of a Trabant with two men travelling on the bonnet.

In the evening we visited Rob and Barbaras’ neighbour to look at the colony of some seventy Lesser Horseshoe Bats in his basement.

Day 8 Sunday 8th June Departure

The last night of moth trapping still produced a good number of new species. Scarce Black Arches, Herald, September Thorn, Rannoch Looper, Sub-angled Wave, Scarce Merveilee du Jour, Rosy Footman, and Olive Crescent were among the species recorded for the first time. The species total for the week was just about three hundred, a very respectable total and an indication of the richness and potential of the site.

It was time to finish packing and say our farewells to Rob and Barbara and their family. We had had a marvellous week here, enjoyable and productive, and we really were very sad to leave.

The journey to the airport went smoothly enough, and we arrived in good time.